A burst pipe floods fast — every minute it runs soaks more of your home. Shut your main valve and call: a live dispatcher answers around the clock and sends a licensed plumber to stop the water and repair the pipe, copper to galvanized, with flat-rate pricing and no after-hours surcharge.
We'll guide you on the phone while a plumber drives to you.
An open burst can release dozens of gallons a minute. Within an hour it can soak drywall, flooring, and framing; within a day it feeds mold. The single most important thing you can do is shut the water off — then get a plumber moving.
That's exactly why we run 24 hours. A burst at 2 a.m. is the textbook case for an emergency plumber: waiting until morning can multiply a few-hundred-dollar repair into a flooring-and-drywall claim.
If a clog or backup is the bigger issue, see our emergency plumber page for everything we handle.
We stock fittings for every common Portland pipe material, so most burst repairs finish the same visit.
Split copper, PEX, or galvanized supply pipe cut out and replaced with a sound section.
Safe thawing and repair of pipes cracked by a freeze. Frozen pipe repair
Corrosion pinholes and lines leaking under the slab located and repaired. Slab leak repair
Broken main water service line between the meter and the house repaired or replaced. Water line repair
Failing threaded joints and fittings on old galvanized systems replaced before the next leak.
When galvanized keeps failing, we repipe in copper or PEX for a permanent fix. Pipe repair & repipe
Portland's housing stock and climate make burst pipes a recurring problem. The usual culprits we find:
We don't just patch the symptom — we tell you whether the pipe is sound or whether a section (or the system) is due to fail again.
Sudden burst-pipe damage is often covered by homeowner's insurance, while slow long-term leaks usually aren't. We provide a clear written invoice and can document the failure and our repair to support your claim.
Coverage is ultimately between you and your insurer — but good paperwork helps.
| Repair | Typical range* |
|---|---|
| Accessible burst pipe section | $200–$700 |
| In-wall / behind-fixture repair | $400–$1,200 |
| Pinhole leak repair | $180–$500 |
| Main water line repair | $600–$2,500 |
*Typical Portland-metro ranges. Access, pipe material, and the extent of damage set the final flat quote — confirmed before work, with no after-hours, overtime, or trip surcharge. Financing available on larger repairs.
An open burst can release dozens of gallons a minute. The single most important thing you can do is shut your main water valve — usually where the line enters the house or at the meter — then open cold taps to drain the lines. Call us and the dispatcher will guide you through it while a licensed plumber drives to you.
Within an hour a burst can soak drywall, flooring, and framing; within a day it feeds mold. Waiting until morning is how a few-hundred-dollar fix becomes a flooring-and-drywall claim — which is exactly why we run 24 hours.
Portland's housing stock and climate make burst pipes a recurring problem. The usual culprits we find:
A clean burst in sound copper or PEX is repaired with a section replacement. When heavily corroded galvanized keeps failing, fixing one spot just moves the next leak down the line — so we'll show you the camera and explain whether a repipe is the smarter long-term fix. We also handle frozen pipes and main water lines.
Sudden, accidental burst-pipe damage is often covered by homeowner's insurance, while slow long-term leaks usually aren't. We provide a clear written invoice and can document the failure and our repair to support your claim — coverage decisions stay between you and your insurer.
Every repair is performed by an Oregon-licensed, background-checked plumber in a stocked truck and backed by a written guarantee. The flat rate is the same whether the pipe lets go at noon or 3 a.m. — no after-hours surcharge.
A lot, fast. A typical half-inch supply line under household pressure can release several hundred gallons an hour, and a fully burst pipe can put out far more. That's why the first minute matters more than the next hour: shutting the main valve stops the flow, and every minute it keeps running soaks more drywall, flooring, and framing. Water also wicks into wall cavities you can't see, which is where the real damage and later mold hide.
First we stop the water and find the failure point. For a clean break in sound copper or PEX, we cut out the damaged section and splice in new pipe with proper fittings — often a same-visit fix. If the pipe is heavily corroded galvanized, we'll show you why patching one spot just moves the next leak down the line, and discuss replacing that run. Every repair is pressure-checked before we call it done.
In most Portland homes the main shut-off is where the water line enters the house — often in the basement, crawlspace, garage, or a utility closet on the street-facing wall. There's also a valve at the water meter near the curb, which you can turn with a meter key. It's worth locating yours now, before an emergency: in a burst, the seconds you save finding that valve directly limit the damage.
Often, yes. A pinhole leak is usually a sign of corrosion or a weak spot, and the same conditions that caused it keep working on the pipe. Galvanized lines in particular fail progressively — a drip today can become a spray next month, frequently when pressure spikes or temperatures swing. Addressing a small leak early, with leak detection if it's hidden, is far cheaper than cleaning up after the burst.
Before winter, insulate exposed pipes in crawlspaces, garages, and exterior walls, disconnect garden hoses, and let a faucet drip on the coldest nights. Year-round, keep household water pressure in a safe range (a pressure-reducing valve helps), and if your home still runs on old galvanized, plan a repipe before it fails on its own. Knowing where your main shut-off is rounds out the list — prevention plus a fast response is what keeps a weak pipe from becoming a flood.
We're a locally run, Oregon-licensed plumbing company built for the floods that can't wait. A real person answers any hour, a licensed plumber is dispatched with priority, and the flat rate is the same day or night — no after-hours surcharge.
Stocked trucks carry fittings for copper, PEX, and old galvanized, so most burst repairs finish in a single visit.
We answer burst-pipe emergencies 24/7 across Portland and the surrounding metro. Shut your main, then tell the dispatcher your neighborhood for a real arrival window — usually within about an hour.
Shut the main and call. We'll talk you through it while a licensed Portland plumber drives to you — no after-hours fees, no waiting until morning.
Water won't stop? Call now — the dispatcher will help while the plumber is en route.
Shut off your main water valve immediately — usually where the line enters the house or near the meter at the curb. Then open cold taps to drain the lines, cut power to any wet areas, and call us. Our dispatcher can talk you through it while a plumber heads your way.
Typically within about 60 minutes anywhere in the Portland metro. Burst pipes get priority dispatch day or night, and the dispatcher gives you a real arrival window when you call.
The most common causes here are aging galvanized supply lines that corrode and let go, freezing during cold snaps, high water pressure, and corrosion at threaded joints. Older homes with original plumbing are especially prone.
It depends on the pipe's condition. A clean burst in sound copper or PEX can be repaired with a section replacement. If the pipe is heavily corroded galvanized, fixing one spot often just moves the next failure down the line — we'll show you what we find and explain the options, including repiping.
All of them — copper, PEX, CPVC, and old galvanized steel. We carry fittings and materials for each on the truck, so most burst-pipe repairs are completed in a single visit.
Sudden, accidental burst-pipe damage is often covered, while slow long-term leaks usually aren't. We provide a clear written invoice and can document the failure to help with your claim, but coverage decisions are between you and your insurer.
Before a freeze, insulate exposed pipes in crawlspaces and garages, disconnect hoses, let a faucet drip on the coldest nights, and keep the heat on. If a pipe freezes, see our frozen pipe repair — call before it thaws, because that's when the split floods.
No. The flat rate we quote is the same whether the pipe bursts at noon or 3 a.m., on a weekday or a holiday. No after-hours, overtime, or trip surcharge — ever.